erin.

I’ve shifted to primarily working at the border (Malaba) since I extended my service in May. This meant that I changed to a new house, which is still in Tororo but a bit closer to where I need to catch transport for my daily commute. I love my new house- it was a welcome change to move from loud neighbors and some other issues at my old place. I have my own compound surrounded by a fence. There’s some maize and sweet potatoes growing in my yard.

There’s a sitting room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom.  My quality of life has been highly improved by a new couch from the wonderful CP.  The layout is a bit weird– the bathroom is attached to the house, but to get there requires going outside. There’s running water in the bathroom- a shower, a tap, and squat/flush toilet. In the kitchen, I use a large drum with a tap on it over a basin to serve as a sink.  There’s no electricity in the house, so I’ve rigged up a system of kerosene lanterns and candles.

I have mentioned in previous entries the immense interest and pride I have witnessed when it comes to Barack Obama. He is celebrated and honored. There are a handful of popular songs featuring the American president that regularly play on the radio here.  Shop-owners have renamed their businesses.  On my way to work every day, I pass a building that has “OBAMA HOUSE” painted across the front in huge letters.  All over Kenya, public transport have Obama’s image and name painted on them.  T-shirts and other clothing (including the absurd-yet-irresistable hologram belt buckle) are splashed with his image.

In Kenya, I was even able to buy a traditional wrap with Obama’s face and a Swahili inscription about him. The woman pictured with me (in matching Obama ensemble) danced and clapped and sang a song about Obama as I bought it.

I hope that the excitement I have seen among Africans about Obama’s candidacy and election can translate into positive change for Africa, the type of change Obama spoke about in Accra, Ghana last week. I do not think that Obama is singlehandedly going to bring about great progress on the continent, but I do hope that people here can view his unlikely achievement as exemplary, as proof that ordinary people–maybe even ordinary Africans–can have power and take responsibility, and as a reason to abandon defeatism and corruption in favor of hope and action.

I found this little guy in my laundry pile.  I thought he was dead, but it turned out he was only sleeping!

Only days after our return from Kenya, we packed up to head west. Our destination? Uganda’s most lauded tourist attraction: the mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

The park has several groups of gorillas that are habituated to daily human visitors. We hiked to see H group, the largest in the park.

We walked through thick forest, occasionally happening upon signs of gorillas—stripped, chewed branches and fresh poop! At some points, our path also intersected with swarms of safari ants, which enjoy climbing up pant legs, biting, and hanging on. Where could the gorillas be?!

Eventually, our guides got a radio call from the trackers, who were sent out ahead to find exactly where H group had set up for the day. They had found them!

When we reached the spot, we had one hour to experience these remarkable creatures up close (only a few meters away). When we first arrived, the adult gorillas were lazing in the leaves, casually munching, while the babies rolled around and swing in the trees, playing.

After a short while, the silverback—the dominant male of the group—sat up. He was immense and stunning.

The group began to shift around to do some more serious eating.

They communicated using grunts, telling others when they found good food. They also farted—a lot!

On our way back from Bwindi, we stopped over at a campsite that was teeming with Colobus and Vervet monkeys. Bonus primate fun!

Because I actually have a quick connection for once, some more photos from Kenyan vacation:

• dohnkeys in a village outside of Mombasa, carrying jerricans of water
• balancing our dhow while sailing around Lamu
• sunrise over Malindi
• ancient Gede Ruins
• fresh coconut!
• a tiny shopping spree at Nakumatt in Nairobi
• fancy resort where we couldn’t afford anything but a cup of juice
• Jamal, our captain, and his son
• giant tree in Gede
• lunch at Carnivore restaurant in Nairobi– all-you-can-eat exotic meats (including ostrich and crocodile)